Suits you sir

If you judge a gentleman by the cut of his job there is only one course of action to take. Arthur Beesley makes a beeline for the bespoke outfitters

Extracts from the Irish Times Article...

For urbane gents, the bespoke suit is surely the equivalent of the Rolls Royce. Neat and stately, its made-to-measure folds and tucks add a dash of elegance and comfort to any humdrum day, and - like fine wine and good company - there's just a little hint of self-indulgence.

Unlike the Rolls, of course, it does not cost a suitcase full of cash. This may be the era of off-the-peg clothing, but the booming economy and heightened consciousness have renewed interest in bespoke tailoring. Previously associated with old-style old men and variations on the colour grey, the tailored suit is now a young man's thing.

"Our customer is not the old Churchillian. We don't have a lot of the old school," says Mr Declan Abrahams of Maurice Abrahams on South Anne Street in Dublin. "For financial guys, the hand-made suit is a kind of uniform. We get a lot of fathers buying suits for their sons - tailoring is extremely popular with the young fellas. It's a bit of a thrill, a bit of a ceremony."

Mr. Abrahams says his clients range in age from their late 20s to about 60. Most are professionals - lawyers, bankers etc. - and many become hooked on the concept, preferring to wear tailored suits only as they get older.

Such figures are likely to be rather familiar with the vocabulary of tailoring, a richly suggestive lexicon of old-fashioned phrases such as skeleton fitting, roll-up cuffs and frock coats. They might also learn of the eminent London cloth-makers of Saville Row such as Wain Sheill and Dormueil. If these names conjure images of bespectacled Victorian gents with huge sideburns working by candlelight on yards of fabric with a measuring tape and scissors, they are watchwords for quality for those in the know. Charvet in Paris, of which Mr Charles Haughey was a good customer, has a similar reputation, although it specialises in shirts.

While the cloth is crucial to the look and feel of the suit and to its price, getting the cut right is the essence of the job. It usually takes a couple of visits. On the first, customers choose their desired fabric from a "swatch", a book of specimens, while the tailor assesses posture - square or sloping shoulders? - and takes key measurements.

Among these are chest, waist, seat, inside leg, outside leg, width of thigh, width of arm and length of arm. Before the cut is finalised, the customer tries a "basic fitting" on the second visit. Clients can choose any shape they like, from tail coat to military uniform and everything in between, including traditional single- and double-breasted jackets.

Whereas some will be concerned about the width between their pinstripes or the breadth of their lapels, others will specify hand-made button-holes only. "For American and British customers, its very important that the buttons on the sleeve open up" says Mr. Abrahams.

As for the cost, people cot expect to pay £500-£600 (€635 - €762) for a handmade suit, but this can rise to £1,000, depending on the fabric and the time required to do the job. "We can't afford to be complacent" says Mr Abrahams, who also stocks off-the-peg suits. "Compared to what we're charging for the top designer range, it's only marginally more expensive."

Bespoke tailoring is a life-long custom. Mr. Abrahams cites the example of a US customer who requested a jacket in a hurry. Only later did he learn that the man was soon to die and wanted to be buried in a new outfit. He adds that customers often request "lucky" outfits, for important meetings or presentations.